Cleaning Your Furniture in 3 Easy Steps

Perhaps your renovation is complete. The tools are tucked away. The drywall dust that covered everything has been cleaned up. Or, perhaps the holidays are coming up and you want to be ready for your guests. It’s time to make your home sparkle and your furniture shine!

In previous centuries, the ability to finish, stain and protect furniture was an important skill. Craftsmen were organized into guilds. These guilds controlled the passing on of information from master to apprentice and maintained the secrecy of the processes and recipes used by the refinisher. The care of most furniture today does not require this intricate knowledge however we may find ourselves just as confused when faced with the sheer number of products that are available to us. It’s time to simplify.

For the purpose of this article, we will assume that the furniture that you are cleaning is no older than 100 years old and that its finish is in good condition. If you suspect that your furniture is older, possibly of museum quality or very valuable, contact a qualified restorer or appraiser before attempting any of these steps. The dirt that builds up on antique furniture and gives it its mellow coloring is called “patina” and its removal through cleaning may affect the value of your piece.

To start with, here are some things you must remember:

1. Never over - wax. A thin coat protects a piece of furniture just as well as a thick one, is easier to polish and does not contribute to wax build-up.

2. Never use spray-on cleaning products. The chemicals they contain are not compatible with many products or finishes. They contribute to that dull, sticky build up on furniture.

3. Do not use furniture oil on your pieces. At best, the effects are temporary. The oil however does attract dust to itself and this dirt is ground into the pores or finish every time it is reapplied. It builds up and darkens.

4. Don’t be fooled by marketing ploys that promise that the company’s product will “feed the wood”. Even if these products could penetrate the wood (which they can’t) the wood is dead thus cannot be “fed”.

5. Be wary of products that promise to revive the finish. What this usually means is that the product contains a chemical which will temporarily “melt” the finish thus giving the illusion of a revived finish. Do it incorrectly and your finish will look worse – permanently.  

The following processes require only the simplest of products: Mineral spirits (or paint thinner), Superfine steel wool (grade 00000), liquid dish soap, water, soft cotton cloths, touch up pens, and a good quality wax or teak oil depending on the furniture’s finish. All are available at hardware centers. Add safety goggles and rubber gloves for protection and you are ready to go!

Step One – The Cleaning 

If your furniture is very old, or if you have used a combination of products such as wax, spray on cleaner / polishes and oil, your pieces will benefit from a good cleaning. It is necessary to get back to the base finish before adding more products.

1. Pour paint thinner (mineral spirits) into a glass or earthenware bowl. Dip a pad of superfine steel wool into the thinner. Wipe the thinner onto the piece in a gentle circular motion for a few moments. This is to soften or dissolve the finish so that it can be removed. Do not scrub. Using a clean soft cotton cloth, simply wipe off the liquefied finish. Do not use terry cloth – it can snag wood and cause damage. Do this for the entire item, working one area at a time. Do not flood the piece. Repeat as required.
2. Using a new piece of steel wool and fresh solution of paint thinner, clean the piece once again, this time working in the direction of the grain. Wipe with a fresh cloth until all traces of wax or dirt are gone.
3. Make a solution of tepid water with dish soap at a ratio of one part soap to 5 parts of water. Wash the piece to get rid of the oily film that is left on the surface by the paint thinner. Do not flood the furniture. Wipe the water off immediately with a clean cloth.

Note:  Some finishes on antique furniture such as shellac or lacquer may show a cloudy haze when the water is applied. If this happens, let the finish dry and polish it with superfine steel wool to restore the shine. Test the furniture in an inconspicuous area.

To rinse off the soapy water, use a solution of water and vinegar and wipe the furniture with it. Do not let the water sit – wipe it off immediately. Allow a couple of days to dry thoroughly. Place dirty, leftover paint thinner into a glass jar and dispose of it at your local Eco Station. You should now be able to see the beautiful grain of the wood. Every piece of furniture benefits by being cleaned in this manner (exceptions noted earlier) regardless of finish.

Step Two – Touching Up Nicks and Scratches

There are basically two categories of finish. There are: 1. Products that are absorbed into the wood such as teak or “Danish” oil on teak furniture 2. Products that sit on top of the wood such as shellac, varnish, lacquer and Varathane or Urethane.

If you have teak furniture or other wood furniture that was finished with a Danish oil, it is important that you use the same product on your furniture. These oils are specially formulated to be reapplied every few years. Do not use wax or other types of oils. Nicks and scratches are touched up automatically when this oil is applied.

If your furniture has the kind of finish that sits on top of the wood, nicks and scratches are touched up using either a stain pen or wood toned felt pen that matches the colour of the furniture. Simply paint the colour into the nick and remove excess immediately. Do not use coloured wax pencils. They will only accentuate the problem.

Step Three – Applying a Protective Coating

For the vast majority of furniture the best protection is wax. Purchase a high quality product that contains carnauba – the kind of wax used on vehicles. It may take a bit more effort to polish but the superior protection is worth it. Cheaper waxes are easier to spread because they contain only the soft, less protective waxes such as paraffin and beeswax.

How often should you wax? Once a year is fine if your pieces don’t get much wear. If your dining room table is used on a regular basis you may want to wax it 3 or 4 times a year. Less is best. Well maintained furniture will retain at least some of its value over the years.

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