Millwork is the visual thread that connects the rooms in a house. This design component is especially important in a heritage home where the wood casings, doors, and mouldings form an integral part of the charm of living in an old house. Over the years, however, layers of smoke from cigarettes, grease from cooking, wax, and oils from human hands can form a layer of grime that obscures the grain of the wood and turns it into a dull, lifeless brown color. It is often at this point that the frustrated homeowner will strip the wood or paint it. There is a easier way.

Restoring your millwork without stripping requires a two step process – deep cleaning, and touching up the colour. Deep cleaning effectively “liquefies” the layers of grime into a sludge that can be removed. Once removed, the wood grain will glow and crazed varnished surfaces will be evened out. The process does require some patience but the results are worth it. (A 5 panel door takes approximately 1 to 1 ½ hours to complete – still significantly less than stripping!).

CLEANING THE WOOD

Assemble the following items: Sudsy Ammonia (the largest container you can find!) or regular ammonia, 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper (waterproof), dish soap, rubber gloves, rags, newspaper, white vinegar, water and a small pail (an ice cream bucket will do). Protective eyewear and a face mask is highly recommended. The following directions are for cleaning a door.

Directions:

1. Lay newspaper on the floor beneath the door. Remove hardware if you wish or clean the hardware in situ using exactly the same process.
2. Fill the bucket 1/3 full with warm water and add approximately one cup of ammonia. Add a squirt of dish soap.
3. Dip rag into the solution. Apply to one section of the door. I recommend starting at the bottom of the door and working up. Do one panel at a time. This ensures that each area is thoroughly, evenly cleaned, and that no part of the wood is kept wet for too long. This step begins the process of softening the first layer of grime.
4. Cut the full sheets of sandpaper in half and fold the half sheets into thirds to fit into the palm of your hand. Dip the waterproof sandpaper into the solution and begin lightly sanding the section of wood in the direction of the grain. As sludge forms, remove it with the rag and rinse in the cleaning solution. The water will get dirty quickly and will require changing often. Do not over-sand.
5. Repeat this process until each section is clean. Some sections will be more difficult because the build up will be heavier. Trouble spots include the bottom of the door and around the door knob. If a grey sludge still appears after repeated cleaning, dip a fresh clean rag into pure ammonia and clean the problem area. This will dissolve any remaining sludge but ensure that you have good ventilation as the fumes will be strong.

1. The job is done when you can see the grain of the wood clearly. At this point wipe the door down with a 2- part water to 1- part vinegar solution to neutralize any remaining cleaning mixture. Buff dry with a clean rag.
2. Allow door to dry overnight.  

The wood may appear rather dry especially in the trouble spots but the surface should feel smooth. You are now ready for the “beautifying” steps.

TOUCHING UP THE COLOUR

This final step will bring your cleaned wood back to life and protect it for the years to come. Purchase a product that incorporates a color, teak or Danish oil and urethane or varathane. My product of choice is “Deftoil” found at most home improvement centers. Buy it in the color that matches the color of your existing woodwork most closely.

•  Take a clean rag and fold it to create a “pad” much like that used for French polishing.

•  Dip this pad into the oil finish and rub into the wood using a circular motion. Finish in the direction of the wood grain. Do not put too much on the cloth. A thin coat is all that is required to make the grain glow and touch up the nicks and scratches.

•  Allow to dry overnight.

•  Reapply in spots where the finish appears to be lighter. This often happens in the trouble spots. The more coats you apply, the shinier the finish so if you prefer a low lustre finish make sure you “buff” the area to remove excess product.

You are now ready to stand back, admire your work… and move on to the next part of the project!

written by Johanne Yakula

Heritage Home Consultant

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