How to Identify China

a) Earthenware or pottery: made from fairly coarse clays which are fired at lower temperatures which are hard eneough to harden the clay but not hard enough to fuse it into an impermeable body. The body of the piece is opaque. It is softer, will stain more readily and is less expensive than porcelain..

b) Porcelain : made from fine white clay ( kaolin) and other raw materials such as ground felspar. When a porcelain dish is held up to the light , it is possible to see through the dish. It is thinner, lighter, more durable as well as more expensive than pottery.

2. Types of Decoration on China and how they are created:
a) Hand painted: An artist(s) paints each piece individually by hand. Look for raised surfaces. Under a magnifying glass you will see the paint stroke.

b) Hand Decorated: This where a commercially produced stencil is applied to the piece and the artist simply adds color within the context of the design. The care and attention given to the painting is also indicative of the quality of the item.

c)Transferware: Commercial stencils are applied to the object and may include color as well as the outline of the design. Under a magnifying glass you will see millions of small dots of color - a dead give away that the item is not hand painted. This is usually the least expensive method of decorating china - however even there, quality shows. Look for stencils that are fitted to the size of the object - not just "cut off" with scissors - usually quite obvious.

3. How to Identify Age in China / porcelain:

The easiest way is to read and identify the marks at the bottom of the piece. A company’s dating system is simply a series of numbers or symbols used to record the date the pottery or the porcelain was made. It is necessary to interpret these trademarks in order to identify the age, history , maker or potter, painter, guilder etc…any pertinent information.

Many companies created their own marking system that did not follow the commonly accepted ones of the times. See Spode, Minton, Worcester, Crown Derby. ( a good book of marks will usually show these in a form of appendix at the back of the book).

) These marks could be:

1) impressed: into the clay under the glaze (clear coat)
2. printed: either under or over the glaze
3. handpainted: under or over the glaze, not always consistent

Please note: Certain marks were used by more than one company because they were considered a saleable motif: ie: British Royal Crowns, The Knot or Staffordshire Knot, Shield Mark

Other Guidelines to identify Age:

a.) Check out the style of the mark. Even if you cannot find the mark, be aware that scrolls were popular from 1820 – 1860, Rectangular marks with heavy initials, 1900 – 1932, Squares with round corners, 1950 – 1960, etc.
b) Colors moved in and out of fashion. There was a limited palette in the 18th century, flow blue was popular 1830 – early 1900, gold sponge designs on edges and rims often seen in late 1800’s, and muted ceramics in grayed tones were the rage during the arts and crafts era .

c) The popularity of certain motifs: Violets around 1910, then roses followed. Terrier dogs in the late 1920’s etc..

d ) The use for such items at the time : Fish sets were popular in 1910, portrait plates in the 1880’s, huge sugar bowls in the mid 1800’s, “tennis sets” in the 1950’s,etc. This also requires some research into the eating practices and home décor tendencies of the era, and socioeconomic scale of the people who used the items.

CAUTION: Even though you may feel you have found the mark associated with the piece, be aware that there are a great deal many reproduced marks on the market. It is necessary th china

at you accept the mark as only one of the clues to establishing the authenticity and age of the piece.

Some common forgeries:
Beehive or Vienna Mark
Crossed Swords
Augustus Rex or AR mark
Sevres mark
Nippon
RS Prussia, only to name a few.

SUMMARY STEPS IN DOING RESEARCH:

Find the mark. Ensure that it is the same on two pieces if applicable ( covered bowl)
- Research the mark by name, initials, device ( such as crossed sword, circles, crowns, anchors, etc.) and / or country of origin.
-Research age by reading identifying terminology in or around mark (ie: dishwasher safe)
-Research age by identifying the “lozenge” information
-Research age by seeking out the registration numbers
- Research visually by looking for similar pieces in books with a great deal of photographs of existing items. Go to museums, antique shops and shows.
-Research by learning about the eating and decorating practices of the time

VALUING YOUR PIECE:

- Once you have identified your piece beyond a shadow of a doubt, get at least three price guides and average the price. Then , attend auctions, antique shows, and visit antique shops. Be aware that you may only get 40 – 60 % of the value price in your immediate market, however , knowing what your pieces are worth will always give you peace of mind that you are not being unfairly taken advantage of.

Some terms: (Credit to "Kovel's Dictionary of Marks 1850 to the Present" an excellent book on marks)

“England” – after 1891
“Made in” – 20th Century
“Ltd” – Generally after 1880’s
“trademark” – after 1875
“Rd No, Reg etc – followed by a number – after 1884
“Royal” – mid 19th century
“Bone China” or “English Bone China” – 20th century
“Cooking Ware” – 1923 – present
Copyright – usually 20th century
“Copyright reserved) usually on English china (after 1876)
“Craze Proof “- 1960 – 1970
“Delfth” late 19th c, prob. 20th century
“Depose or Marque depose” – French for registered
“detergent proof” c1944 – present
“East or West Germany” 1949 – 1990 ( unified in 1990
“Color Fast” – c1960
“Freezer / oven / table” – after 1960
“Ges or Gesch “ – registered in Germany after 1890
“Hand painted” – 20th century
:Inc or incorporated” – c1940
“Ltd” – after 1861
“Made in Occupied Japan” – 1945 – 1952 Allies occupied Japan after WW11
“Microwave safe” – after 1970
“Nippon” – 1891 – 1921
“Ovenproof” - after 1933
“Oven tested” – after 1935
“Oven to Table” – after 1970
“Patent applied for” – 1902 - present
“Patent pending” – 1940 – present
“Permanent color” – after 1960
“Refrigerator ware” - 1938 –1952
“22 carat” after 1930
“Underglaze” - 1903 – 1945
“Union label” or “Union Made” – 1930’3
“US Patent” – 1900
“US Zone, US Zone Germany” – 1945 – 1949 (occupied zone after WW11
“Warranted 22 K gold” – 1920’2
“Warranted,” if English, and part of company name: 1890’s

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